Paying homage to the James Beard Award-nominated steakhouse of the same name in Los Angeles, David Chang’s Majordōmo Meat & Fish opened at the Palazzo on Dec. 30, 2019. The new restaurant takes over nearly 250 seats formerly owned by Carnevino, and represents the biggest project to date for chef Chang.
Best known for the Momofuku empire, as well as for hosting the food and travel series Ugly Delicious on Netflix, Chang represents his Korean-American upbringing through the Majordōmo menu, which is built on big flavors and quality ingredients. From the elegant raw bar to smoked prime rib carts circulating the space, no expense is spared. The space is buzzy, but not too loud, and guests can expect posh seating and professional service from beginning to end.
Not “a Korean restaurant” in the conventional sense, but rather one built on Chang’s travel and heritage, Majordōmo has an atmosphere built around high ceilings and modern music. With windows of aging beef, countless bottles of wine and top-shelf liquor for cocktails on display, temptation can be found at every angle. And that is before one even considers the food.
Chang took no chances when sourcing talent for a project he describes as “one of the most insane things we’ve ever tried to do.” Majordōmo is toqued by Brian Lhee, formerly of Tao. Expecting high volume, especially during Las Vegas’ convention season, Lhee and his team are charged with everything from pasta to $225 short rib presented tableside, not to mention several house-made sauces and dips, such as innovative chickpea Hozon.
Fans of oysters are strongly encouraged to inquire about the day’s variety, which can pair well with anything from a lemon drop or truly spicy margarita to champagne. Vegetarians may enjoy the spicy cauliflower, Thao’s snap peas or a “Bounty Bowl” featuring vegetables from California’s finest farmers.
Another notable menu item is “bing,” a butter-free flatbread that took Southern California by storm, and the biggest difficulty is deciding which toppings to add. Simple honey-butter sure seems like a fine choice, but why not Kaluga Caviar or shaved foie gras? For fans of heat, there is also “tingly lamb,” while no house of meat would be complete without steak tartare that Majordōmo makes with Wagyu and sesame.
The space is celebratory, with several menu items built for sharing. Diners must carefully consider entrees. Sure, one could go all-out with A5 Miyazaki Striploin, but for those seeking something a little less “baller,” there is also a $38 pork chop or 12-ounce skirt steak. Craving more seafood? Lobster lo mein or mafaldine pasta with Dungeness crab are calling. Looking for a signature dish? If not the prime rib, why not indulge in several pounds of beef short ribs, complete with kimchi and bibb lettuce, plus a second service of fried rice?
Soon to add a back room Korean barbeque tentatively called “Siberia,” and already slinging sliders at Moon Palace across the way, Chang admits to having sights set on locals as well as tourists. Majordōmo bridges dinner to dessert with coffee sourced from Las Vegas’ own or well-sourced teas. For those dining solo, consider the Key Lime pie, better than anything found in Florida. But for any party of two-or-greater, the “build your own” Valrhona white chocolate rice pudding with vanilla ice cream and salted caramel whipped cream is a showstopper.
Majordōmo Meat & Fish is located inside The Palazzo at 3325 South Las Vegas Blvd. 1-866-725-2990. Open daily from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.